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July 1, 201095 From a parcel that used to belong to the Hospices in Chablis until purchased by the Moreau family. It is a beautifully fashioned wine, its steely character rounded out with delicious ripe fruits, green apples, pear skin and kiwi fruit. Impressive and for aging.
International Wine Cellar
July 200994 (this was entirely in barrel, but less than 2% new oak, until the February '08 racking and then went into tank) Bright yellow. Tight nose suggests fresh stone fruits, acacia flower and spice. Then rich, creamy and round, showing more of its texture and personality today than the more lemony and brisk regular Clos bottling. This is really remarkably tasty already but has the stuffing and balancing acidity for a leisurely evolution in bottle.
September 30, 200994 Almost creamy in texture, with an essence of mineral underneath. Lemon, white peach, apple and stone flavors cascade like a mountain stream while the bracing acidity keeps this defined and persistent on the long finish. Best from 2012 through 2023. 50 cases imported.
October 1, 200994 Like several of these '07s, there is a touch of sulfur that plays right at the edge of perceptibility and is not enough to detract from the otherwise pure and floral aromas that are not quite as elegant as the Les Clos but the textured and sappy flavors possess even more depth and power with perhaps the best balance, depth, length and overall sense of harmony in the range. A wow wine.
December 200990+ The Moreau 2007 Chablis Les Clos des Hospices – from a single site within the Clos, and matured entirely in barrels, though only a negligible share new – suggests brightness of citrus and salinity by way of ocean breeze already in the nose, where high-toned mint, lavender, and distilled pit fruit notes also appear. While there is a greater sense of textural richness here than in the “regular” Les Clos, the brightness seems more detached and less well-harnessed, and notes of detached woodiness return, reminiscent of other Moreau bottlings, so that the finishing effect, while impressively persistent, is slightly diffuse and bitter. Perhaps this undeniably formidable wine will have knit itself somewhat short-term. For now, I can only speculate that it might merit attention for six or more years if things come together. I confessed in issue 179 to my difficulties in entirely appreciating the vinous results of Christian and Fabien Moreau’s clearly enormously quality-conscious and diligent efforts (described there in some detail), especially in view of awkwardly detached notes of oak and sometimes of lactic acidity. The nature of the 2007 vintage seems to have mitigated this somewhat, and the vivacity of these wines as a group is noteworthy and highly encouraging. I was given a fascinating opportunity this spring to taste the four earlier vintages of Moreau Les Clos, and while unconvinced by its three predecessors, I found the 2006 more elegant and refined, with its woodiness a bit toned down from when I reviewed it in issue 179, although it betrays some heat. Fabien Moreau says he targets 12.5% as an ideal measure of alcohol, which required chaptalizing his 2007s slightly, so the richness and body that these wines exhibit does not come from there. Picking commenced here September 6 because, Fabien Moreau maintained, his fruit was ripe by then. Beginning with 2008, the wines will all – at least, in principle – be fermented exclusively with indigenous yeasts, as was already the case with most of the 2007s, and the viticulture regimen will continue to move in a biodynamic direction.