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February 201193 The 2008 Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard is a bigger, richer, denser wine exhibiting a medium ruby color as well as notes of forest floor, fresh mushrooms, raspberries, black currants and spring flowers. With excellent depth and richness, it is best drunk over the next 5-6 years. Mark Aubert’s brilliant Chardonnays continue to place this winery in California’s top Chardonnay hierarchy, sharing the same rarified air as Marcassin, Kongsgaard, Peter Michael, Luc Morlet, Kistler, Hartford Court and DuMol. These cool climate, usually hillside sites on the Sonoma Coast are cropped low, the wines are fermented in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. I am on Aubert’s mailing list, and while I never seem to have enough wines to age very long, a recent tasting of his 2004s revealed them to still be in splendid condition. With a few noteworthy exceptions, aging California Chardonnay beyond a decade is a fool’s game, but certain older Marcassin and Mt. Eden Chardonnays have impressively stood the test of time. I am sure Aubert’s would also, but who can defer their gratification that long?
October 15, 201193 Firm, intense and concentrated, with a tight, rich band of vivid blackberry and wild berry flavors. This is full-bodied, tightening on the finish, where the tannins add a measure of backbone. Drink now through 2018. 274 cases made.
International Wine Cellar
May 201091 Good deep red. Explosive aromas of crushed cherry and raspberry, sassafras and black tea, lifted by a floral element. Then sappy, spicy and rich in the mouth, with a chewy saline quality, an intriguing iron note and plenty of alcoholic power. This big boy is currently showing more texture and soil character than sweet primary fruit. Finishes with dusty tannins that will require patience.