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International Wine Cellar
May 200893 Good full, deep red. Deeply pitched aromas of red plum, raspberry, wild strawberry, cola, underbrush and earthy spices, all lifted by a floral element. Sappy, sweet, dense and thick, with impressive extract to the raspberry and underbrush flavors. This is huge without coming across as aggressive, and the tannins are wonderfully fine-grained. As has been his habit in making red wines for years, Aubert uses a spike of heat during the middle of the fermentation to get more sweetness and gras in his wines.
December 200892 The very fine 2006 Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard reveals more of a pomegranate character than previous vintages. Its superb bouquet exhibits notes of forest floor, raspberries, cherries, and a hint of allspice. Medium-bodied with good acidity and a shorter finish than the 2007 or 2005, this brilliant Pinot requires consumption over the next 4-5 years. It is hard to find better Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than those created by Mark Aubert under his Aubert label. Aubert’s resume is outstanding, having previously worked under Helen Turley. He also served as chief winemaker at Peter Michael as well as at Colgin, making Bordeaux blends and Syrah. In addition to producing his own wines, he is currently the winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyards. Aubert’s extraordinary Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fashioned from cool climate sites on the Sonoma Coast. In 2006, he only produced two Chardonnays because of botrytis in the vineyards. Employing a ruthless selection process, he had the courage to totally declassify vineyards with which he was not happy. There are two Aubert Pinot Noirs produced, one from the Reuling Vineyard that represents a 50-50 blend of the so-called Calera Clone and a clone from the most famous vineyard in Vosne-Romanee (legal issues prevent anyone from naming this grand cru vineyard). The other Pinot Noir comes from the UV Vineyard, named after the brilliant viticulture manager, Ulises Valdez. In spite of Aubert’s brilliance with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, he has not yet hit a home run with his Bordeaux blends from David Abreu’s vineyard on Howell Mountain.