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December 200798 Another utterly profound wine is the 2005 Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard. A gorgeous nose of wet rocks, white currants, flowers, pineapple, and honeysuckle are all present in this vivid, full-bodied, powerful wine that tastes like a Chevalier-Montrachet from France. Stunningly rich, pure, and long, this is another tour de force from Mark Aubert, who certainly has the Midas touch when it comes to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It should drink well for 5-8 years. Mark Aubert is on the move, leaving Colgin Winery in favor of working for the Bryant Family Vineyard, while at the same time producing some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. He seems to have a plate filled with both potential and stress. The bad news is that one of his suppliers decided his Chardonnays were just too profound for the Quarry Vineyard, and will no longer sell him fruit from that source, and in 2006, there was so little Reuling available, that cuvee was not made either. In short, there are two fewer Chardonnays for the 2006 vintage! Nevertheless, those who got on the mailing list and secured some of his 2005 Chardonnays have some of the finest Chardonnays ever made in California at their beck and call. Of course, these are made from old Wente clones of Chardonnay, given full malolactic, aged on their lees, and bottled with no clarification.
International Wine Cellar
May 200793+ (80% new oak; from a blend of Hyde, Hudson, Mount Eden and Corton-Charlemagne clones; 15.3% alcohol) Yellow-green. Flamboyant aromas of pineapple, dried apricot, crushed stone and candle wax, with some oaky sweetness showing. Powerful, slightly aggressive flavors of sappy pineapple and crushed stone are a bit less smooth than those of the Ritchie, which offers the creaminess of old vines (it's from a 1971 planting), but this chardonnay, from seven-year-old vines, boasts terrific intensity and length and has the acid backbone to age. Give this lots of air if you open it anytime soon.
July 31, 200792 Floral, pear, peach and apple aromas are joined by toasty, cedary oak, delivered on a tightly focused beam. Intense and vibrant, with lively acidity keeping the flavors fresh and lively. Drink now through 2011. 1,214 cases made.